It’s now Oktoberfest season, even though the first ones started arriving in late May. This is the height of the season, in numbers to choose from, and quality.
Among my favorites so far this year is from Lake Louie Brewing. Brewer Tim Wauters changed up that brewery’s Oktoberfest by using an heirloom malt called Isaria 1924, used by German brewers in the early 20th century. “This is the best malt I’ve ever worked with,” says Wauters. I agree — it makes a great Oktoberfest, especially for those who like a slightly sweeter take on the style. It’s not cloying, just inviting and expressive, with smooth caramel and bready sweetness. ($11/six-pack of 12-ounce cans.)
A slightly hoppier take on Oktoberfest comes from Karben4 Brewing. In years past this Madison brewery made an ale version of the style called Oaktober Ale with touches of oak. This fall the brewery is offering a traditional Oktoberfest lager that features Hallertau Mittelfrüh hops. It is medium-bodied and copper-colored, with an herbal nose and a bitter finish, with a 5.8 percent ABV. ($13/four-pack of 16-ounce cans.)
Also new to Madison shelves this fall is OKT-SKI from Badger State Brewing in Green Bay. This beer has been available in northeast Wisconsin for a couple of years, and this fall it is making its way into the Madison market. Look for its Blaze orange cans, a nod to the fall hunting season. It has balance, finishes clean, and has a modest 5.2 percent ABV. ($10/four-pack 16-ounce cans.)
A gluten-free Abbey and Hefeweissbier
Alt Brew has released its first Belgian abbey. This medium bodied gluten-free ale is amber- colored, with hints of plum and raisin in its caramel sweetness. It is flavorful, balanced and clean and finishes at 6.7 percent ABV.
I got an early taste of it in late August while sitting down with brewery owner Trevor Easton and brewer John Puchalski. “I feel Belgian beers are underappreciated,” says Puchalski, who likes to take any opportunity to introduce drinkers to new styles.
Gluten-free Belgian beers are rare on Madison store shelves. Alt Brew Abbey Ale is a taproom beer only ($6/glass and $9/bomber). Alt Brew also just released its gluten-free Hefeweissbier (four-packs $12), bursting with yeasty notes of banana and citrus. It is made with buckwheat, which lends body. It’s a great lighter option for celebrating Oktoberfest with German styles.
But soft…
While attending this year’s annual Great Taste of the Midwest, I discovered Space Breakfast from Hinterland Brewing of Green Bay. Space Breakfast (the name comes from Hinterland owner and brewmaster Bill Tressler being inspired by the orange drink Tang) is a kettle sour made with wheat, orange and apricot puree, and lactose. It finishes at 5.8 percent ABV. But this sour ale caught my attention because it’s canned with nitrogen.
Tressler has developed a proprietary process for how his brewery cans with nitrogen, as opposed to carbon dioxide. Nitrogen accentuates softness in the beer’s mouthfeel.
Despite my years of training in how to open a canned beverage, this one is counter to my instincts. The brewery encourages you to shake the can before serving, an aggressive rousing of the beer as one might do with a bottle-conditioned German hefeweizen. After the pour it has a beautiful yellow golden head as the nitrogen is released. Serving it on nitrogen gives this beer wonderful softness which calls attention to the sweetness of the orange and especially the apricot. Some might see this as a bit of a novelty act, yet I really enjoyed how the texture and tropical notes all worked, without coming off like a frozen sour slushie. ($12/four-pack of 12-ounce cans.)