Word on the street—or in the kitchens—over the last week is that restaurants in at least two Texas cities have been asked confidentially to provide certain materials and information to the Michelin Guide. That suggests Michelin’s anonymous inspectors are finishing up their last few bites—and may, in fact, already be through.
On July 16, the famous French restaurant guidebook announced it would be adding Texas to its roster of (now) eleven locations covered in the United States, including parts of California, Colorado, and Florida, plus Atlanta, New York City, and Washington, D.C. While Michelin noted that the Texas restaurants that made the guide would be released “later this year,” no date was specified.
The cities selected for scrutiny are Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio (and a few suburbs), each of which has contributed a stipend to Michelin to underwrite the process. Houston said it is giving $270,000 for a three-year contract. Other cities’ contracts are presumably in line with that. Travel Texas, the tourism-promotion arm of state government, is also contributing. The practice is similar to cities granting tax breaks and other inducements to attract sports franchises and high-tech companies.
In the story on its website announcing the debut of Texas, Michelin said that in addition to “upscale dining” venues, it would be sampling “award-winning barbecue, locally sourced seafood and steaks, and savory Tex-Mex.”
What are the awards that Texas restaurants could win? A single Michelin star means high-quality cooking “worth a stop.” Two stars designate excellent cooking “worth a detour.” Three stars define exceptional cuisine “worth a special journey.” Below star level is the Bib Gourmand award, which recognizes “friendly establishments that serve good food at moderate prices.” (“Bib” is short for Bibendum, the name of the cartoon Michelin Man.) The most basic, and most numerous, award is Recommended, for “simply a good meal,” said Michael Ellis, former international director of Michelin guidebooks.
Michelin stars come with pluses and minuses. Chefs who’ve never worked at a starred restaurant yearn for the prestige and the potential business it can bring. But those who’ve worked at such restaurants say there’s a cost—namely, the anxiety of never knowing if one of the anonymous inspectors is silently munching away at a back table.
What do the inspectors look for? According to the company website, they focus on “quality products,” “the harmony of flavors,” “the mastery of cooking techniques,” “the voice and personality of the chef as reflected in the cuisine,” and overall consistency (each restaurant is inspected several times a year).
We polled the anonymous restaurant reviewers who contribute to our Dining Guide, as well as barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn and taco editor José R. Ralat, for their predictions for Michelin nods—mainly for stars, but also for the other two categories. Here are their best guesses.
AUSTIN: Barley Swine, Birdie’s, Comedor, Craft Omakase, Dai Due, El Naranjo, Emmer & Rye, Épicerie, Este, Franklin Barbecue, Hestia, Intero, InterStellar BBQ, J. Carver’s, Jeffrey’s, Juniper, Lenoir, LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, Lutie’s, Mexta, Nixta, Olamaie, Otoko, Pasta|Bar, Red Ash, Suerte, Tare, Tsuke Edomae, Uchi.
DALLAS: Cattleack Barbeque, Fearing’s, Georgie, Ichigoh Ramen Lounge, José, Ka-Tip Thai Street Food, Knife Italian, Lucia, Mābo, Maskaras Mexican Grill, Một Hai Ba, Namo, Ngon Vietnamese Kitchen, Nick & Sam’s Steakhouse, Partenope Ristorante, Purepecha, Radici, Resident Taqueria, Roots Southern Table, Sachet, Shoyo, Tatsu, Tei-An, Town Hearth, Uchi.
FORT WORTH: 61 Osteria, Ático, Bonnell’s Fine Texas Cuisine, Clay Pigeon, Don Artemio, Ellerbe Fine Foods, Goldee’s Barbecue, Grace, Le Margot, Lonesome Dove, Panther City BBQ, Saint-Emilion, Tinies.
HOUSTON: Blood Bros. BBQ, Bludorn, Ema, Hamsa, Hugo’s, Ishtia, Jūn, Katami, Kata Robata, Kiran’s, Le Jardinier, Little’s Oyster Bar, March, MF Sushi, Nancy’s Hustle, Navy Blue, Neo, Pondicheri, Soto, Street to Kitchen, Tatemó, Theodore Rex, Truth Barbeque, Uchi, Xochi.
SAN ANTONIO: Blü Prime Steakhouse, Bohanan’s, Brasserie Mon Chou Chou, Clementine, Cured, Domingo, Jardín, Ladino, Mixtli, Pharm Table, San Taco, Shiro, Silo 1604, Silo Prime.
