Welcome to Ask Eater, a column from Eater Philly where the site’s editor Ernest Owens answers questions from readers on all things Philly food related (hype around certain dishes, dining trends, restaurant etiquette matters, food influencer crazes, service labor problems and more). Have a question for him? Submit your question to [email protected] with the subject line “Ask Eater.”
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Dear Ask Eater,
As the summer winds down, I found myself getting into the hype of a sandwich that everyone was raving about for the past month. Every year, this place does a lot of mass marketing and promotion on social media about this particular sandwich, and after waiting in the sweltering heat for it — it was good, but wasn’t all that.
I’m not sure if I’m being a Negative Nancy or a killjoy, but I feel like this spot makes enough money to not make people be as inconvenienced for a damn sandwich. Is any dish truly worth waiting in long lines to eat or am I bugging?
Thanks,
A Neutral Nancy
Dear A Neutral Nancy,
For starters, your name has inspired how I’m going to answer your question.
I’m beyond the point of waiting in long lines for a single piece of food — whether it’s a cheesesteak, scoop of ice cream, or BLT. For me, the hyper-marketing of food — something that should be a basic necessity for everyone — has always felt cringe, especially in this economy. Places that constantly obsess over having long lines of customers waiting for something they’re selling seem like they’re creating more of a logistical nightmare than a true display of clout.
But then again, there’s a market (and audience) for this kind of hype — and if it isn’t for you, skip it immediately.
There are people who treat certain foods like a novelty — like it’s a ticket to a movie they haven’t seen. The fetish of waiting in long lines in anticipation, being the first to eat something that’s trending, and posting about it for all to see is a thing. If it’s not your cup of tea, avoid the trap — but understand that it’s not going away anytime soon because capitalism is still prominently on the menu.
Ernest
Dear Ask Eater,
My favorite restaurant has been obsessed with doing these chef “takeovers” and pop-ups to support their industry friends. Personally, the food hasn’t been as good with all these changes and it seems to be on trend with a lot of restaurants in the city right now. It seems like a lot of stellar places are doing these kinds of things nowadays and it feels like overkill.
What’s going on here? How do I let my favorite spot know we just want THEIR food and THEIR food ONLY?
Thanks,
A Simple Eater
Dear A Simple Eater,
I hear you, loud and clear. But I would like to kindly encourage you to read the room right now.
The restaurant industry is undoubtedly in a crisis. The effects of the pandemic are still ongoing, causing massive closings that are not ending anytime soon. To simply open a restaurant out of the blue is a privilege that many can’t afford, especially right now. So for established restaurateurs to open their doors to emerging chefs to test out their ideas and share their kitchen is a fair price we should be willing to pay as loyal diners.
Pop-ups and chef takeovers have been a thing in the industry for years, but I believe the consequences of the pandemic have caused a noticeable uptick, as it’s become riskier for people to open a new restaurant. Collaboration is essential to the survival of our city’s dining scene. Some will make sense, and others will be a dud on arrival.
Ideally, restaurants should advertise ahead of time that a takeover is happening (most of them usually do), and you should strive to always research in advance to avoid them if they continue to not interest you. In other words, give these chefs and restaurants a little more grace. Provide feedback as a diner, but also be open to seeing things evolve as the industry has. Welcome to our new normal as diners.
Ernest
Dear Ask Eater,
I’ve recently had the discomfort of seeing a bar that I’ve gone to since forever enforce an unnecessary dress code policy that’s straight-up foolish. It’s very vague and weird. You can no longer wear boots, hats, and they’re saying no “inappropriate” clothing. What does that even mean? I’m not trying to read into it more than it is, but it feels like borderline discrimination.
How do I address this with them without feeling like I’m a part of the woke mob?
Thanks,
Just Want to Drink My Beer in Peace
Dear Just Want to Drink My Beer in Peace,
Real quick — sharing concerns around possible discrimination doesn’t make you a part of the “woke mob,” it just makes you a person exhibiting humanity.
Now, on to this weird dress code.
Bars and restaurants that often attempt to enforce such policies often fail because they are rarely enacted equally, which begets concerns of discrimination. I’m willing to bet they have a rationale for doing this, but it won’t likely justify the outcome. I recommend letting their management know how you feel and if other frequent bargoers share similar thoughts — encourage them to speak up as well.
Customer backlash to new policies can help make owners reconsider faster than other tactics. Never underestimate the power of the “frequent paying customer mob.”
Ernest
