By Kiera Wright-Ruiz, The New York Times

You could make this rolled omelet in a classic Japanese tamagoyaki pan, a square dream of a kitchen appliance, but this recipe from Kiera Wright-Ruiz works just as well in a nonstick skillet. When made right, tamagoyaki is a feat of patience and wonder: First, a thin coating of egg is rolled onto itself to the edge of the pan like a sleeping bag, a second coating creates more layers around the first, and this process is repeated until you’re left with a tender, multilayered omelet that is at once mesmerizing to look at and satisfying to eat.

Tamagoyaki, a Japanese staple, is made by carefully rolling several thin layers of cooked egg into a rectangular omelet, which creates a soft and delicate texture. Traditionally, it’s made in a special tamagoyaki pan, but this version also works with an 8-inch nonstick skillet. There are sweet and savory variations, and this recipe falls somewhere in between the two: The soy sauce, mirin and dashi pack it with umami, while the sugar adds a subtle sweetness. The technique can be challenging at first, but do your best to keep each layer consistent in color and each fold parallel to the last. Don’t worry about little tears; they’ll be covered up with the next layer.

Yield: 2 servings

Total time: 15 minutes

Ingredients

  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tablespoon mirin
  • 1 tablespoon white soy sauce or 1/2 tablespoon dark soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon dashi stock, optional (see Tip below)
  • 1/2 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon neutral oil, plus more as needed

Preparation

1. In a small bowl, combine eggs, mirin, soy sauce, dashi (if using) and sugar. Whisk until well combined.



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