Published by Jeremy. Last Updated on June 17, 2024.
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The Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group has been making an interesting move in recent years by turning its conventionally high-end restaurants in the Cultural District into fast-casual concepts in Bakery Square.
First was Tako Torta, which brought back tako’s acclaimed (and often infrequently available) torta menu alongside classic dishes like the namesake tako taco serving up some of the city’s best octopus in a tortilla.
So when the second concept, Golden Gai, was announced as an izakaya-style expansion of the sashimi and nigiri restaurant Gi-Jin, we were in, and were one of the first to place an order on opening day.
While the restaurant was only open for takeout to start, this one was everything we love about Gi-Jin- all without the multi-week wait to enjoy a reservation!
Golden Gai is a Worthy Complement to Gi-Jin
Golden Gai opened for takeout sashimi, nigiri, and maki and can be ordered in one of two ways. The first is the conventional online ordering as well as via a walk-up kiosk found outside the restaurant in Bakery Square.
While being take-out only meant that the bar program was not available for the full izakaya experience, we made up for it with a rather robust lunchtime feast all the same. So we went online, placed our order, made our way to Bakery Square for pickup, and quickly made our way back home to enjoy this beautiful meal from the comfort of our own home.
To try and sample our way around the menu, we put together a mixed order of the chef’s selection nigiri and maki box plus extra yellowtail, spicy scallops, and toro maki rolls for good measure.
The chef’s box selection is a great way to get into Golden Gai’s menu without having to make a selection yourself. We normally are hesitant on chef selection style menus where we don’t know what we will receive, but as we went into this one knowing how much we enjoy Gi-Jin, we put our faith in the chef without hesitation.
Our box included eight pieces of nigiri (two each of eel, salmon, yellowtail, and tuna), a chef-selected sushi roll (spicy tuna), a modest amount of salmon sashimi, edamame, and dipping sauces to round things out.
While the box itself is likely an appreciable lunch for one, we liked that it was crafted with two in mind, as we could easily split all of the stellar seafood between the two of us. (For the budget-minded, you may get some sticker shock with this box’s price point, but it is worth noting that it comes in at about 10% less than building the same order a la carte.)
After the first bite, we were convinced that Golden Gai would live up to Gi-Jin’s high bar, and we can safely say we would order any item in the box a la carte again. That said, the unagi (eel) had some of the best flavors of any eel nigiri we’ve ever had thanks to its perfect cook, generous portions, and rich and flavor sauce on top. We’ll be ordering this one many times in future visits!
Our extra maki rolls came six to an order and, while smaller than some rolls you may get elsewhere, carry on the tradition of this restaurant showcasing fresh and flavorful fish (all at a fairly decent price point, too). The toro was always a favorite of ours at Gi-Jin for its incredibly tender texture and robust flavor intensity, and the rolls here are no different.
The maki may look simple, but with fish this good, you don’t need any crazy toppings!
That said, it is worth highlighting that our order also topped out at over $100, which was a bit hefty for lunch (thanks primarily to the premium Chef’s box), but one that is certainly warranted for fish of this quality. The attention to detail and strong flavors found at both Golden Gai and Gi-Jin are simply one of those instances where we do not bat an eye in the slightest. If you are on the budget-conscious side, however, don’t overlook the restaurant’s bowls for a bit more budget-friendly option beyond the maki rolls, too!
Now we simply find ourselves waiting for the restaurant to open for indoor dining and bar program to have a true izakaya experience with a few rounds of drinks to go along with the stellar fish. From the quick teaser I got of the space when picking up my order, this is going to fit in quite well in Bakery Square much like the approachable Tako Torta next door.
But for us, if it means we can get Gi-Jin level sushi without having to make a reservation weeks in advance, all the better. Perfection on demand is sometimes hard to come by!
Golden Gai is located at 116 Bakery Square Blvd in Bakery Square.
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