Hot and sour tom yum soup is a Thai staple that can start off a meal at virtually any restaurant. At its best, it’s glorious: bright and intense with a complex palate, at once spicy, sour, sweet, garlicky, peppery, citrusy, and often holding a little funky punch from chili paste. At its worst, it’s a timid mix that omits some or most of those components.
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