The only American-style barbecue joints in the world with a Michelin star are in Texas. CorkScrew BBQ, in Spring, and Interstellar BBQ, La Barbecue, and LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, all in Austin, each received a star during the Michelin Guide’s inaugural Texas awards ceremony held at the 713 Music Hall in Houston last night. In addition to these four joints, 24 barbecue restaurants were recognized in other categories, including Michelin recommended and Bib Gourmand.
The Michelin organizers sprinkled in some drama during their onstage announcements. Emcees Java Ingram and Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, called the restaurant names alphabetically as they were awarded, causing some pitmasters in the crowd to think they were being skipped over. “I thought I was going home without anything,” John Bates of Interstellar told me. “I was really worried.”
As the ceremony seemed to be winding down, Ingram looked to Poullennec and, in her Texas twang said, “I don’t think we’re done just yet. It feels like we’re missing a few people up here.” In a French accent as thick as crème fraîche, Poullennec responded, “I think we may have left out a little bit of Texas spirit. Some might even say it is the soul of Texas.” The four barbecue joints were then announced to heavy applause.
As Will and Nichole Buckman of CorkScrew BBQ made their way to the stage, Will—donning his new white jacket with an embroidered Michelin star—took the microphone and told the crowd, “Up until about five minutes ago, I felt like I was being punked.” Poullennec explained, “It seems only fitting to save this for last.”
Ali Clem of La Barbecue was in tears. Her wife and business partner, LeAnn Mueller, died unexpectedly at 51 last June. Now she carries on the legacy they built together. “I honestly didn’t expect this,” she said just after descending from the stage. “I will share this with my crew.”
I asked Bates about his decision to close his popular Noble Sandwich Co. in 2019 to focus on Interstellar BBQ. “I think I made the right choice,” he said with a laugh. Bates was honored to receive the Michelin star but was even happier with who was onstage with him. “To get it with Ali and Evan and Will, these are great people,” he said.
The Buckmans never imagined their business would receive international recognition when they opened their food truck north of Houston in 2011. They moved into their brick-and-mortar in 2015, but, Will said, “That’s still who we are in our minds, a little pink food truck.” Nichole held back tears as she reflected on their roots. “It’s what you work so hard for,” she said. “We just want everyone to be happy when they come to the restaurant.”
LeRoy and Lewis also began as a food truck. It moved to its new spot in South Austin in February, seemingly just in time to wow the secret crew of Michelin inspectors. After receiving his star, Evan LeRoy held the jacket meant for business partner Sawyer Lewis, who could not attend the event. “I really just can’t wait to get back to the restaurant and celebrate with the whole team,” he said as we approached the well-stocked bar next to the stage. I asked the bartender what he recommended for a Michelin-star pitmaster, and he proceeded with heavy pours of Blanton’s bourbon. Glass in hand, LeRoy finally relaxed. “The whole process has been very scary,” he said of being scrutinized by the Michelin team. He was hoping to receive a star but said, “I don’t think I ever spoke it out loud.” In the end, he added, “I’m really happy for the whole state.”
Barbecue joints that received other designations from Michelin were also present at the event. “This feels oddly familiar in a weird way,” Aaron Franklin said, standing beside his wife and business partner, Stacy. Franklin Barbecue in Austin received a Bib Gourmand, but Aaron was referring to the James Beard Award ceremony nine years ago when he was the first pitmaster to win a Best Chef award. The respect barbecue received from Michelin last night was a continuation of his breakthrough so many years ago. “It’s so cool to see so many barbecue joints recognized,” he said.
The joints in the recommended category include Mum Foods Smokehouse and Delicatessen and Terry Black’s Barbecue in Austin; Smoke’N Ash BBQ, in Arlington; Panther City BBQ, in Fort Worth; Brisket & Rice, in Houston; and 2M Smokehouse and Barbecue Station, in San Antonio.
Bib Gourmands, the category that falls between the recommended and starred restaurants, were awarded to Briscuits, Distant Relatives, Franklin Barbecue, Kemuri Tatsu-Ya, KG BBQ, and Micklethwait Craft Meats, in Austin; Blood Bros BBQ, in Bellaire; Cattleack Barbeque, in Dallas; Goldee’s Barbecue, in Fort Worth; Pinkerton’s Barbecue, the Pit Room, and Truth BBQ, in Houston; Barbs B Q, in Lockhart; Killen’s Barbecue, in Pearland; Burnt Bean Co., in Seguin; Rosemeyer Bar-B-Q, in Spring; and Tejas Chocolate and Barbecue, in Tomball.
I asked the owners of the four joints that received a star if they’re planning Michelin-themed menu items or a special Michelin tray for their customers. Bates and the Buckmans weren’t sure. LeRoy, who’s expecting a surge in business, said, “I think the goal right now is to try to keep up.” Clem, immediately recognizing the expectations a Michelin star brings, said, “It better all be a Michelin platter.”
