When Convenience West closed this summer, the barbecue scene in far West Texas suddenly became a lot sparser. The Marfa joint was way out there but still drew smoked-meat lovers and even the attention of the James Beard Foundation. In fact, just before pitmaster Mark Scott and his wife and restaurant co-owner, Kaki Aufdengarten-Scott, announced the closure, they attended the James Beard Awards in Chicago as nominees (although they didn’t end up winning).
Still, no matter the plaudits, barbecue is a difficult business with razor-thin margins, and running a pit is time-consuming and physically demanding. In light of that, it’s easy to understand that the small team at Convenience West was worn out.
Luckily, we can always remember the good times. I fondly recall the first time I enjoyed a spread at Convenience West—the brisket was delectably moist, the ribs were perfectly cooked, and the Frito pie sausage special was inventive. But what really stuck out were the creative sides. Scott’s first job in a restaurant was at Maiya’s, which, at the time, was an unprecedented fine-dining spot in Marfa. There, he learned to think about all the delicious ways vegetables can be prepared, so it’s no surprise that he paid attention to the entire plate. Memorable menu items included blue cornbread, kale salad, a sweet potato salad, and an ever-changing array of pickles.
The star, though, was the Carrot Dip Dip, whose whimsical name was inspired by a family friend’s three-year-old. The dip is smooth and savory, with an earthy sweetness from the roasted carrots. The pepitas and fresh cilantro that garnish the top add texture, and Fritos are served alongside to scoop it all up. I’ve often thought it would be the perfect snack for a tailgate or a holiday gathering, but I couldn’t master the recipe from memory. I reached out to Scott and asked if he’d share the recipe with us, and he generously obliged. Now we can all enjoy and remember some of the flavors of Convenience West.
Convenience West’s Carrot Dip Dip
We said farewell to the Marfa barbecue joint, but we couldn’t part without knowing the secret to its famous vegetarian side.
- 2 pounds carrots, peeled
- 1 yellow onion
- 6 garlic cloves
- 1 red bell pepper
- 1 tablespoon toasted pepitas, plus some for topping the dip
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon for roasting the carrots
- ⅓ cup apple cider vinegar
- Cilantro leaves to garnish
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Fritos for serving
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Cut carrots into quarter-inch medallions. Toss with a tablespoon of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Roast on a lined baking sheet at 425 degrees until carrots have a nice color and are fork-tender, about 45 minutes to an hour.
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While carrots are roasting, cut the onion in half and roast on a gas burner or under a broiler in the oven for about 5 to 10 minutes. Fifteen minutes before the carrots are supposed to be done, wrap the charred onion and garlic cloves together in foil and place them on the sheet tray with the carrots in the oven.
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Cut the pepper in half, remove the seeds and membrane, and roast it the same way you did the onion. When it is charred, put it in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap.
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When the carrots are cooked, pull them out of the oven and put them aside to cool for fifteen minutes.
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By now the pepper should be cool enough so that you can peel off the blackened skin. After peeling it, add the pepper to a blender with the roasted onion and garlic.
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Blend on high for 10 to 15 seconds, and add your carrots, pepitas, and apple cider vinegar. With the blender still on high, add olive oil gradually. We’re looking for a smooth, almost hummus-like texture.
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Serve topped with a dash of olive oil, the remaining pepitas, and fresh cilantro, with Fritos on the side for dipping.
The carrots will roast better if they’re all about the same size, so it’s helpful to pick similarly sized carrots instead of just buying a two-pound bag.
