Brushed suede and stylized yokes have once again made their way into the fashion mainstream. Courtesy of brands ranging from Louis Vuitton to Old Navy, we’ve seen clear-jelly cowboy boots and designer moto chaps, and our feelings about seeing the Western look get caught up in the trend cycles are . . . complicated. But while the fashion capitals of the world flock to incorporate fringe, there’s one piece of cowboy couture that—mostly, at least—has yet to be claimed by the supermodels: the bolo tie. For now, bolos still feel like chic, effortless pieces of jewelry we can wear around the office without our colleagues thinking we’re Bella Hadid–in–her–cowgirl era wannabes (we hope).
The bolo is the official state tie of Texas, and the text of that legislation best captures its potential: “The bolo tie is well matched to the individualism that is so much a part of the Texan identity; in selecting or designing a clasp, bolo tie wearers are able to express their personal flair; moreover, the selection of a bolo over a standard tie can suggest that the wearer refuses to be bound by convention and relishes the freedom to exhibit a distinctive sense of style even as they maintain a dignified, formal appearance.” Entrenched in Texas history, bolos don’t just represent the past—they reflect the diversity of Texas residents today.
While scholars can’t agree on the exact year the bolo tie was created, the neckwear is rooted in Indigenous cultures, with traditional designs often incorporating silver and stones, such as turquoise, mined in the Southwest. After the success of cowboy films in the 1950s, bolo ties became more broadly commercialized, even replacing neckties in some formal menswear ensembles. But even though bolos were first associated with men’s fashion and, by extension, masculine style, they’ve been embraced by all genders.
Farralyn Withrow, owner of Conroe boutique Small Town Famous, has noticed the incorporation of Western details into otherwise mainstream styles for a few years now. As both a vintage and Western enthusiast, Withrow offers both traditional bolo ties and handmade bolos fashioned from chunky vintage brooches—both of which she recommends layering with other chunky necklaces. “If you want to use a regular, traditional bolo, it’s fun to mix metals [in your look] because a lot of them have silver and gold [accents],” explains Withrow. “You can adjust the pendant high, like the regular tie, or you can wear it lower, like a necklace.”
At her Austin thrift store, American Drifter, Kristen Lucio offers both Native American–made and less-traditional bolo ties. The latter, which Lucio refers to as “costume” bolos, can sometimes incorporate colored cords or slides (the technical term for the ties’ pendants) made from horseshoes, figurines, or vintage brooches. “They’re a little more affordable, and they have all kinds of different looks on them. We get a lot of people that are interested in starting to wear bolo ties, so they gravitate towards those,” explains Lucio, who suggests styling bolos loosely over denim shirts. “You don’t have to wear it all the way buttoned up and pushed up to your neck like you wear a formal bolo. A lot of guys don’t. They’ll unbutton, you know, a couple buttons on their denim shirt, and they’ll wear the bolo just loosely on their neck.”
There are plenty more unconventional ways to style bolo ties. Withrow offers purses made with interchangeable bolo cords at her store, while Lucio sometimes styles bolo ties on wide-brimmed hats, adding a drop of hot glue to temporarily secure each tie in place. Since bolos are traditionally worn with collared shirts, Nicole Nystul, owner of eclectic vintage store Poorbaby Fashion, in Austin, encourages people to look for different styles and eras of collars. “Sailor collars are really in right now, and I feel like a bolo tie would look really cute tucked underneath that. I love wearing them with a sixties dress that has a fun collar, too. And I’ve seen people wear them like a necklace. You could wear a simple, strappy dress and make that a statement piece to your outfit,” explains Nystul. (Nystul’s own favorite tie features a slide with a scorpion preserved in resin.) Lucio, meanwhile, reminds us that bolo ties can be styled just like other necklaces over T-shirts and solid-colored dresses, even with no traditional collar in sight. We’d even recommend finding new ways to tie the bolo itself, such as creating a bow out of the cords, or playing with color, using bright bolos to spice up simpler outfits.
Whether you’re looking to buy your first bolo or your fifteenth, here are a few Texas bolo brands that will surely add a Western kick to all your fits.
Desired Objects
We see you, y’allternatives. Live out your Renaissance fair dreams year-round with a chain mail bolo tie from Desired Objects, an Austin-based brand. These pieces can be paired with everything from dainty dresses to Dr. Martens. We’d also recommend adding silver touches throughout your outfit to really make this bolo pop.
Katie Kismet
The glass bolo ties by Austin-based artist Katie Kismet are minimalist and whimsical at the same time, making them versatile enough to be dressed up or down. Consider the Squiggle Bolo, with a whimsically shaped slide available in a variety of bright hues. For a more formal tie with some edge, we recommend the Black Diamond.
Kendra Scott
There are few jewelry brands as quintessentially Texan as Kendra Scott. The designer hasn’t branched out fully into neckties, but she has created vintage-style gold and silver “bolo necklaces,” which combine the classic bolo shape with a fine-jewelry feel. Wear these delicate chains alone, or mix metals and layer with other necklaces.
RockhoundArt
These silver-and-turquoise bolo ties from Alan Wilson of RockhoundArt, based in Georgetown, may be the most classic type on this list, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t fun. What we like most about these pieces are the bold, unique hues of each turquoise pendant, some of which are also polished into organic, funky shapes.
SmithSilver925
This Lubbock-based Etsy seller offers traditional bolo ties with a fun twist, including ones with slides made from color-shifting dichroic glass and even fossilized Orthoceras shells—members of an extinct cephalopod genus that look straight out of a sci-fi movie.