Why It Works
- Combining masa and mashed potatoes produces a dough that fries up crisp on the outside with a fluffy interior.
- Using a combination of savory mushrooms and sweet caramelized onions in the filling gives the cazuelitas a nice balance of flavors.
- A spicy, acidic glaze cuts through the richness of the fried dough and filling.
I first tried cazuelitas—the Mexican pot-shaped edible vessels made from a mixture of masa, mashed potatoes, and, at times, shredded cheese—at a friend’s dinner party years ago. I was impressed by the marriage of masa and mashed potato that produced the savory fried donut-like vessel filled with a potent chile-laced salsa. While the first version I tried was filled with a fresh salsa, I’ve since learned that one of the best things about cazuelitas is that they welcome nearly any filling.
Since my first experience, I’ve made and eaten many versions of these fried masa shells and I’ve tried them with a range of filling options. My version below of cazuelitas are deep-fried until the exterior is crisp and golden-brown, while the inside remains soft and fluffy. Instead of using a classic Mexican filling option like fresh salsa, thinly sliced dressed cabbage, or chopped meat, I instead chose a rich and savory mushroom, caramelized onion, and crème frâiche filling that’s somewhat influenced by French cuisine. The jammy texture of the cooked filling is a welcome contrast to the lightly crisped fried masa.
Once filled, the cazuelitas are then dunked into a buttery chicken stock glaze to finish. While they work best as an antojito, or appetizer, they are so rich and satisfying they can also be served as a full meal. There’s no denying that cazuelitas are a labor of love, but they’re so worth it. The recipe includes multiple steps—the making, shaping, and frying of the masa, cooking the filling and the glaze, and the final assembly—but the process of shaping the cazuelitas is fun and the dish is impressive.
Tips for Shaping Cazuelitas
Cazuelitas are easier to make than other masa shapes such as tortillas or tetelas since you don’t need to haul out a press or fold any edges with precision. At their simplest, the masa just needs to be rolled into a ball and poked about halfway down into the center to create cazuelitas’ signature round casserole-pot-like shape. I like to stretch the interior a bit thinner than some versions I’ve eaten so I can load them up with even more filling. Just make sure not to stretch the walls as thin as a tortilla. I find that keeping the walls of the masa shell thicker provides the ideal balance of crisp to fluffy once fried.
Filling the Cazuelitas
The crater-like shape and neutral flavor of a masa harina and potato dough allow for an endless variety of fillings; chorizo, beans, stewed meats, and vegetables, such as thinly sliced cabbage, radish, and avocado, are common choices. As noted above, this recipe breaks from tradition a bit and features a filling of mushrooms, caramelized onions, and crème fraîche.
The filling is umami-rich and the jammy onions contrast nicely with the crisp outer layer of the cazuelitas. I use Serious Eats senior culinary editor Leah Colins’ technique for making sautéed mushrooms to cook down a large batch of mushrooms with steam and extract their earthiness. A small amount of crème fraîche forms a cohesive mixture with the mushrooms and onions and creates a creamy texture. Make sure to make the filling first before starting the masa shells. You can gently reheat the mushroom mixture before filling the cazuelitas, or serve it closer to room temperature. It is delicious both ways.
Glaze the Cazuelitas to Finish
I chose to finish the filled cazuelitas with a glaze that’s similar to a chicken pan sauce (yet another break from traditional cazuelitas). I love how it clings to the masa and has a potent savory flavor. I also added a touch of Mexican flavors in the form of cilantro, lime, and red pepper flakes. The hint of heat and acidity from the red pepper and lime tames the richness of the dish.
The glaze’s texture is just as important as its flavor. I wanted to make sure that the glaze was thick enough to cling to the filled masa shells to form a shiny flavorful coating. If the glaze was too thin, it wouldn’t stick to the cazuelitas and its flavor would be lost. To guarantee a perfect glaze-like texture, I added gelatin to the mixture to thicken it slightly. The result was a potent pan sauce that coated every part of the filled masa shell once dipped.There are a lot of elements in this dish, but I enjoy that each ingredient is prominent without overshadowing the rest.